How to Plant, Grow, and Care For ‘Jubilee’ Bush Watermelons

’Jubilee’ bush watermelons celebrate the flavor of summer. The dwarf melons boast superior sweetness on compact vines. Made for hot weather, the relative of a favorite southern heirloom stands up to heat and humidity for refreshing rewards on long summer days.

An excellent melon for hot climates, ‘Jubilee’ bush is also a space-saving option with shorter vines and smaller fruits than the classically large oblongs. They’re a fit for containers and raised beds, and can grow vertically to free up ground space.

‘Jubilee’ bush expands the options for growing sweet, juicy fruits across climates and garden situations. Savor the delicious taste of summer by planting now and enjoying them later in the season.

What are ‘Jubilee’ Bush Watermelons?

‘Jubilee’ bush is a prized watermelon variety for its flavor, manageable size, and ability to withstand heat and humidity with good production and disease resistance. Its high sugar content makes it a sweet selection among bush types, which aren’t always as sweet, juicy, and tender as their full-size counterparts.

‘Jubilee’ bush has lineage in the favorite heirloom ‘Jubilee’, a result of several crosses introduced by the Florida Agricultural Experiment Station in the early 1960s. ‘Jubilee’ is tops for its large, flavorful melons and resistance to wilt and anthracnose, setting it up for good yields in humid conditions.

Like all melons, ‘Jubilee’ bush is in the Cucurbitaceae family along with squashes and cucumbers. Watermelons are long-maturing, soaking in the warmth and sun of summer days as they fill and sweeten.

Characteristics

‘Jubilee’ bush produces light green, oval fruits with dark striping. The bright red flesh has a fine, crisp texture to complement the sweet taste. Ready for harvesting in about 90 days, ‘Jubilee’ bush produces three to five fruits per plant.

The oval melons weigh 10 to 13 pounds, as compared to the 35-pounders of the standard ‘Jubilee,’ which reach over two feet long. The manageable vines spread three to five feet with resistance to common cucurbit diseases of Fusarium wilt and anthracnose.

Native Area

Citrullus lanatus is native to North Africa, with wild ancestors in southern Africa and the Kalahari Desert. The drought-tolerant species weren’t necessarily sweet, but they contained water for hydration. The fruits made their way to Egypt, where cultivation began for improvements in water content and sweetness. The ancient watermelons even appear in tombs in painted depictions and as physical seeds. The crop later presents in historical references in Israel, Ancient Rome, China, and Europe. 

The fruits traveled through colonization and the slave trade from Africa, making their way to North America. Cultivation dedicated to disease-resistant, table quality crops heightened during the last century and continues to innovate. Warm, sun-drenched growing conditions remain essential for their development.

Planting

In the ground, direct sow watermelon seeds or seedlings into low mounds to improve air circulation, drainage, and minimize damp conditions that lead to disease issues. Mounding also reduces root and vine competition for moisture, nutrients, and sunlight. Two to three vines planted in low, 16-inch tall mounds give vining stems room to run while elevating the crowns. Allow six to seven feet between mounds for vines to run.

Growing Vertically 

With bush types, trellises and tripods are simple ways to grow the melons vertically. Vertical growth provides a number of benefits, from conserving valuable growing space to improving air flow to making pest and disease scouting easy. Install the support structure at planting, and tie the vines as they grow, every four to six inches or so.

Use sturdy materials like a heavy-duty tomato trellis or a tripod. Train the stems to grow up the three arms of the structure and on lateral supports between the poles. Make the support four to five feet tall to support mature vines.

Since stems aren’t strong enough to hold the 10-plus pound fruits, create a cradle for the melons when they reach a few inches. Purchase a fruit net or use strips of cloth, twine slings, or pantyhose to slip around the melon. Flexible and airy, they expand as the melon grows. ‘Jubilee’ bush needs strong supports for the hefty fruits.

Growing vertically brings high visual interest as the melons develop on the vine. It also results in uniform shaping and no ground patch among the skins.

Growing in Pots

With short vines, ‘Jubilee’ bush also grows in containers. Opt for a pot at least 20 inches deep and wide, and install the vertical support structure at planting.

Good drainage and a high-quality potting mix are essential for potted specimens. Topdress with a mulch layer to boost moisture retention and regulate soil temperatures, keeping the mulch off the stems to prevent disease issues.

How to Grow

Plenty of sunlight, warm temperatures, even moisture, and good air circulation are key to growing ‘Jubilee’ bush watermelons. With patience during their development, rewards pay off a few months later.

Light

‘Jubilee’ bush performs best in full sun, with at least six hours or more of daily sunlight. They tolerate dappled shade in the intense rays of southern afternoons, but won’t grow, flower, or fruit in too much shade.

Water

The cucurbits do best with consistent moisture throughout the growing season, and one to two inches a week of rainfall and irrigation is usually sufficient. When feasible, avoid splashing the leaves during watering sessions. Irrigate at the ground level through drip irrigation or soaker hoses to avoid overly wet conditions that harbor and spread spores.

Fluctuations in water cause stress, leading to halted vine growth and dropped blossoms. Melons, like tomatoes, are also susceptible to the physiological disorder blossom end rot. A watermelon looks perfectly healthy until suddenly it develops a rotting patch. Blossom end rot occurs from water fluctuations, where extreme moisture and dryness cause a lack of nutrient uptake, including essential calcium. At planting, scatter crushed eggshells or bone meal to promote calcium availability during regular watering sessions.

With melons like ‘Jubilee’ bush, reducing irrigation when the fruits are nearly ripe minimizes cracking and splitting. When they reach maturity, the fruits stop growing in size but continue to absorb water. Watermelons are already 92% water, and the extra moisture exceeds the rind’s capacity. Too much water near peak ripeness also reduces sweetness. As the melons reach their prime sugar content, extra water dilutes the concentration.

Soil

Organic, well-draining soils are best for melons, with sandy loams as optimal. They prefer slight acidity with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. Topdress with compost to boost nutrition and soil composition.

Temperature and Humidity

‘Jubilee’ thrives in warm conditions, and optimal growing temperatures for the frost-sensitive annuals are between 70-85°F (21-29°C). They need warm soils for germination, with temperatures above 70°F (21°C) as ideal.

When planting, ensure the soil temperature is at least 65°F (18°C). Long summer days and warm nights promote vigorous vines, while soils that are too cool at sowing hinder germination and seedling growth.

While ‘Jubilee’ bush withstands heat and humidity, plenty of air circulation around leaves and stems is best for health and staving off fungal problems. Situate pots to allow airflow between other plants, containers, and walls.

Fertilizing

A low-grade, balanced fertilizer at planting gives a boost as roots, vines, and leaves establish. After the initial feeding, opt for a fertilizer with a higher phosphorus rate than nitrogen (the P in the N-P-K ratio) to promote flowering.

Phosphorus and potassium are necessary for flowering and fruiting. While nitrogen is helpful early on as crops establish, too much of a good thing is a detriment. Avoid applying excess nitrogen through manure or compost during the growing season. Fish emulsion, kelp, and seaweed are low-grade organic options for planting and during growth phases.

Maintenance

For vines on the ground, a little extra protection helps the fruits reach their maximum size. Cradle them in straw to keep them above the soil level. The idea behind the lift is to lessen moisture and dampness by improving circulation and insulating the fruit. It also forms a barrier between the skin and soil-dwelling pests.

Harvesting

When it comes to harvesting watermelons at peak ripeness, there’s a limited window for achieving the sweetest rounds. The 90 days to maturity for ‘Jubilee’ bush are the best timeframe for checking the fruits regularly. After flowering and pollination, readiness is in about 35 to 45 days. 

For watermelons, the best ripeness indicator is color. Look to the “field spot” where the belly of the melon lies on the soil surface. It transitions from yellow to creamy white when ripe. Skin color, too, is a prime indicator. Shiny skin may lose its luster and become dull and rough when ripe.

Ripe watermelons also have a brown, withered tendril or “pigtail” stem near the stem. And when tapped, the fruit should make a “thump” sound. A ripe round sounds hollow and dull with the tap of a finger. Unripe ones sound more metallic with a lighter tone.

Propagation

Seed is the easiest way to propagate the bushy melons. Wait for warmth to direct sow seeds or transplant seedlings and nursery starts. Watermelons have roots sensitive to transplant disturbance, and direct sowing minimizes damage. 

Direct sow watermelons one to two weeks after the final frost and when soil temperatures reach 70-90°F (21-32°C). Sow two to three seeds in the center of the mound or pot at ½ inch deep. Look for sprouts to emerge within 5 to 10 days. When three sets of true leaves appear, thin the seedlings so that one singular sprout remains. Clip the sprouts at the base of their stems to avoid disturbing the young roots of the remaining seedling.

In cool climates with short growing seasons or to get a jumpstart on lengthy development, start seeds earlier indoors in biodegradable pots or soil blocks. Start melons indoors two to four weeks before you plan to transplant. If planted too early or in cool weather, they’ll be slow to start with delayed flowering and fruiting.

Common Problems

Melons sometimes experience low pollination, which leads to misshapen or underdeveloped fruits. When it comes to pests and diseases, they’re susceptible to the same ones as other cucurbits and include the cucumber beetle, the squash vine borer, and the squash bug. Melons aren’t their primary host, but it’s best to separate cucurbits when possible.

Poor Pollination

Melons produce male and female flowers and rely on insects, especially bees, for pollination and fruiting. A single female flower needs repeat visits from bees to transfer enough pollen. If there’s low bee activity during flowering, weak pollination impacts fruit set and development.

The easiest way to boost pollination is to grow flowering plants in the vicinity. Nectar-rich herbs, perennials, and annuals attract bees and other flying pollinators, who, in turn, visit the watermelon blossoms. Diverse blooms also draw beneficial predators to manage pest populations.

To enhance fruit set, you can also opt for hand-pollination. Use a Q-tip or paintbrush to transfer pollen from male to female flowers. Or pick a male blossom and brush it across the female blooms. Male flowers have stamens, while females have a stigma in their center and a small, undeveloped melon at their base. Female blooms last only a day, so catch them in the morning for the best receptivity.

Pests

Regular scouting to spot pests early is the best control against quick damage. Use organic and food-safe pest controls if necessary, and follow label instructions to avoid impacting healthy crops and pollinators.

Squash vine borers burrow into the stem as larvae and feed on tissues, though they are not a common pest of watermelons overall. When they do attack, the stem weakens and becomes unable to absorb water, causing sudden wilt. There are ways to lessen the damage through regular scouting and growing melons away from other cucurbits in infested areas.

The squash bug is a sap-sucking pest that causes leaves to lose water and nutrients. The leaves become speckled, eventually wilting, blackening, and dropping. Cucumber beetle adults feed on leaves, blossoms, and fruits, while larvae feed on roots and stems. Regular scouting for each pest benefits the group. Pyrethrin sprays help treat the squash bug and cucumber beetle.

Diseases

‘Jubilee’ shows resistance to anthracnose, a common leaf blight, and Fusarium wilt, a deadly fungal infection. Powdery mildew and downy mildew are other common melon disorders. A horticultural oil, like neem, can stave off early infections.

Prevention through cultural management is the best means of defense. Provide plenty of air circulation around vines to avoid damp conditions and water consistently to prevent overly wet or dry situations.

Frequently Asked Questions