Where to Plant Hibiscus in the Garden: 5 Location Tips

From tropical hibiscus to hardy species that come back every year, there’s nothing like the massive disc blooms to light up the summer garden. The large, colorful trumpets are also a favorite of specialized bees and other pollinators who find the whirling beacons irresistible.

Tropical hibiscus bring zest to sunny summertime displays, growing year-round in frost-free climates and as annuals or houseplants in colder regions. Cold-hardy hibiscus, like rose mallow and rose of Sharon, have a wider range, typically perennializing in USDA zones 4 or 5 through 9 for years of high color.

Hibiscus of all types grow beautifully in large pots and in the border. Their lush, tropical aesthetic is versatile in the garden and easy to maintain with the right cultural conditions and care. The best location offers a strong foundation for continual blooms. Where to plant hibiscus depends on its best growing situation, with plenty of moisture and ample sunlight, and your plans for the bloomer.

Choose the Best Type for Your Landscape

The type of hibiscus you’re growing has a bearing on where to plant it. While there are different species of hibiscus with varying hardiness parameters and characteristics, the genus has overlapping cultural requirements when it comes to a few essential needs. 

Mallows prefer organically rich soils but adapt to various types given regular water. Most are moisture-loving, growing naturally in wet areas with good drainage. They withstand short dry spells, but in prolonged drought, susceptibility to insect damage from Japanese beetles and hibiscus sawflies increases.

Dry conditions also hinder flowering, while regular moisture throughout the warm season keeps the blooms coming. Good drainage and aeration ensure roots don’t sit in overly wet soils for prolonged periods.

While many varieties have flowers that last only for a day, continual budding ensures another is ready to open and take its place.

Tropical Hibiscus

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, or Chinese hibiscus, is the tropical type that brings the signature lush aesthetic we associate with poolside containers and island vibes. Their broad, papery blooms range from yellow to apricot to pink to crimson, ready to highlight any annual display.

Chinese hibiscus grows outside year-round in warm, frost-free climates like zones 10-11, and sometimes 9 with extra cool-season protection. In cooler areas, try overwintering them indoors and moving them out for another spring and summer round the following year.

Rose Mallow

Rose mallow adds tropical inspiration to the perennial bed with dinner-plate-sized blooms. There are North American native species (including H. moscheutos, H. laevis, and H. coccineus) and their hybrids in a diversity of foliage and flower colors. Unlike tender, tropical types, they’re durable across colder conditions and survive winter in zones 4 or 5 through 9.

Hardy hibiscus are slow to awaken in spring and among the last perennials to do so. Once temperatures rise, they leaf out quickly and develop buds for flowering in midsummer through fall. The wide, bright petals and prominent stamens capture attention and also attract beneficial insects. 

The foliage is a draw in addition to the floral discs, with deeply lobed leaves in green to dark purple, depending on the variety. Dense branching gives a bushy form to frame the standout flowers. 

Rose of Sharon

Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) is a vigorous shrub with showy disc blooms in blue, lavender, pink, or white. Larger and shrubbier than the perennial mallows and tropical hibiscus, the plentiful flowers are somewhat smaller. Also called althea or common hibiscus, rose of Sharon has a carefree habit and can grow up to 12 feet tall. The adaptable perennials are generally hardy in zones 5-9 and tolerate heat, humidity, coastal, and urban situations.

Rose of Sharon is native to India and China and suits cold climates. It begins blooming in July, with flowers until frost. The hollyhock-like blooms often have a dark central eye, with single or double forms that bring ruffled appeal. Leaves are usually maple or heart-shaped, and cultivars have vase-shaped, upright, and columnar forms.

Some rose of Sharon varieties produce abundant seed pods that readily reseed and become invasive. Sterile or seedless cultivars are available to reduce the spread (although there is discussion about sterile cultivars of invasive species and their impacts on the surrounding ecology). Check your area’s invasiveness potential to choose which hibiscus species is the best fit.

The Right Light

In addition to access to regular moisture, sun exposure plays an essential role in deciding where to plant hibiscus. The genus shows the best flowering and stem strength in full sun to partial shade, with at least four hours of sunlight daily.

They tolerate upwards of six hours of sun, especially in cool climates and with regular water. In hot climates with intense afternoon rays, they appreciate shade protection during peak hours to avoid sunburn.

Optimal placement includes plenty of morning sun. An east-facing location gives good exposure to sustain the energy necessary for all that prolific flowering. Whether planting hibiscus in the ground or in pots, aim for four to six hours of sun, particularly morning sun.

Featured Placement

Hibiscus provides contrast in its foliar texture and floral forms, in addition to its color. The eye-catching bloomers bring high visual interest amongst other summer blooms and foliage. For a splash of color, bring in Chinese hibiscus. For recurrent seasons, plan for maturity with rose mallow and rose of Sharon.

Tropical Hibiscus

Tropical types are the highlight of potted arrangements and annual displays. The thrillers usually grow three to ten feet tall, making them ideal for large containers.

Dwarf varieties may grow one to two feet tall and make an abundant display lining the middle or front of a bed. Plant small specimens in groups for impact.

Pair tropical hibiscus with sweet potato vine in lime or purple as a tropical trailer, or golden creeping Jenny for a fine-textured pop of chartreuse. Alternanthera ‘Ruby’ or ‘Purple Knight’ offers contrasting foliage on mounding forms to round out the arrangement. The annuals accept regular moisture and share the same sun exposure conditions.

Rose Mallow

When it comes to where to plant hardy hibiscus, feature rose mallow in the perennial border, rain garden, native planting, cottage style, bog, and container display. They’re a style fit for anywhere that warrants dramatic color, whether with deep purple, textural foliage, or bold blooms.

Rose mallow is a perennial we should grow more of, whether relying on native species for our regions or their high-performing cultivars. While the species can reach 8 feet tall with thick, upright stems, cultivars are often more compact at two to four feet, with dense branching. Their sizing makes them suitable for tucking into smaller spaces without sacrificing floral form.

‘Midnight Marvel’ is a favorite with crimson blooms that stand out amongst dark foliage. Its maple-shaped violet and olive green leaves turn vivid orange in the fall. Black-red buds open to substantial ten-inch red flowers with yellow stamens.

‘Mocha Moon’ has cups of pure white petals with painted scarlet centers and striking foliage in bronze and mahogany. Vigorous and bushy with good rounding, the perennial reaches three to four feet tall. Its compact size and upright branches accommodate small spaces and potted arrangements.

Rose of Sharon

The flowering shrub has a presence with its large stature and head-to-toe color that continues the tropical feel. Employ them as hedges, foundation accents, and specimen focal points. They take pruning well to manage size and shape. They also make a striking espalier. With upright, columnar, and shrubby varieties, they fit a variety of garden scales.

Opt for a unique columnar variety like ‘Purple Pillar’ for vertical interest in narrow spaces, like punctuating porch pillars, mixed hedges, foundation cut-ins, or containers. ‘Lil Kim’ is a dwarf selection that tops out at three to five feet tall with bright white, ruffly flowers with red centers.

In Pots and Containers

Planting hibiscus in pots and containers offers a movable feast for the eyes. Use sizeable pots, at least 18 inches deep or more, to accommodate the extensive roots. Purchase nursery specimens for sizable features at the start, especially for annual/tropical types. These provide a cheery welcome on the front porch steps and an oasis feel on the deck or patio.

Ensure pots have ample drainage holes, and use a quality potting mix for optimal aeration, moisture retention, drainage, and nutrition. Since hibiscus rely on regular moisture, pots need frequent watering in the summer heat.

When the soil surface is dry about one inch deep (a knuckle’s length), it’s time to water. Cooling afternoon shade can help with moisture retention, as can a topdress of mulch.

Over the Winter

Rose mallow and rose of Sharon can stay in place over the winter if they are hardy to your growing zone. Give them a heavy layer of mulch as extra insulation. Plant them in spring, summer, or early fall to allow time for roots to establish before winter.

Leave them standing without cutting back so they provide winter interest with upright branching and perches for wildlife. Cut rose mallow back in late winter or early spring before new growth emerges. Do any pruning and shaping of rose of Sharon this time of year, too.

For hibiscus in pots and containers, their portability is an asset. Chinese hibiscus can overwinter indoors and continue to thrive as a houseplant. It may show signs of stress during the transition, but placing it in a bright location with open light and reducing watering helps maintain health. Keep them out of heated or cooled drafts to prevent excessive drying.

To increase ambient humidity, place the pot near a tray of pebbles filled with water, or opt for a humidifier. You can also move the tropical to a protected space like a cold frame, garage, or basement with some natural light and where temperatures remain above freezing.

For perennial species in pots, plan to leave them outdoors if they are hardy to two zones lower than your growing zone. Since they lack the insulation of surrounding soil mass, the two-zone-colder rule of thumb reflects external winter conditions for potted specimens. In the lowest hardiness zones, extra winter protection is helpful. 

Cluster pots against a wall, add mulch, or surround them with leaves. There are several handy ways to overwinter perennials in pots and to insulate them from deep chill and winds. Bring them into a cold frame or garage for insurance against winter extremes. Check the moisture every few weeks to make sure roots don’t dry out completely.