How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Hebe Shrubs

Hebe shrubs stand out from the rest in home gardens. They pop from backdrops with their textured leaves and colorful blooms. Cool-weather lovers, these shrubs thrive in mild, temperate climates throughout the U.S. 

One of their most spectacular features is their late-blooming clusters of flowers. Each flower clump contains dozens of small blossoms that attract bees and butterflies to your yard. They emerge at the end of summer when not much else is blooming. Consider incorporating them into pollinator gardens and borders to help your local insects. 

Two types of hebes exist: hardy and tender. Hardy options may survive down to USDA hardiness zone 6, while tender types need cool summers and frost-free winters to grow well. When choosing a hebe, consider your climate first before making a selection. Then, decide on an option that will thrive in your garden. 

What Is It?

Hebe shrubs are evergreen plants with woody stems and lush leaves. There is incredible variability in the genus; many varieties and species offer different colors, leaf shapes, and blooms. With so many types to choose from, there’s sure to be a hebe for you. 

Native Area

Most hebes are native to New Zealand, though a few originate from parts of Chile, Australia, and islands in the South Pacific. They prefer cool, long summers and frost-free winters. Despite their needy preferences, they’re hardy shrubs that work well in cold parts of the U.S.

The Pacific Northwest is an excellent place for hebes. San Francisco is ideal, as is the Willamette Valley of Oregon and the coastal regions of California. Evergreen hebes grow well in USDA hardiness zones 6 through 11, depending on the type. Some are more hardy than others. 

Arid, hot summers and freezing winters are difficult for hebe plants. They’ll struggle in cold or hot regions without protection. Moderate the conditions and they’ll succeed—in hot areas, for example, provide partial shade instead of full sun, and water regularly. 

Characteristics

Hebe shrubs sprout opposite leaves instead of alternate leaves. This means leaves grow in pairs opposite from each other on the woody stems. Some cultivars have whipcord-like foliage that resembles conifers like those in the Thuja and Chamaecyparis genera. 

Others have triangular, short, and stubby leaves that make geometric rosettes as they grow. The effect is quite stunning! You’ll have to take a step back and enjoy the shrub from a distance to see it in all its glory. A few cultivars have multicolored, pink, or maroon leaves instead of green ones. Atop the stems sprout pink, purple, or white flower clusters resembling those of other Veronica plants. 

They look alike because hebes are close relatives of veronicas—their other common name is “shrubby veronica.” Recently, all hebe plants were renamed to Veronica. This is why you may see both names at nurseries and plant shops. Their family changed, too, from Scrophulariaceae to Plantaginaceae. 

Planting

Whether you’re growing a species of hebe from seeds or planting a potted plant from the nursery, planting is an important step. A successful start helps your shrub adapt to the garden’s conditions. It’s best to plant in spring or fall when the weather is mild and frost-free.

Growing From Seed

Hebe seeds are small and mighty. You can sow them in pots or open flats, depending on your seed starting preferences. Surface sow seeds on moist potting soil and press them firmly down. Keep them moist throughout the sprouting process, and place them in partial or dappled shade outdoors. 

Most hebe species dislike frosty winter temperatures. Store them in a greenhouse, cold frame, or hoop house. If you don’t have a greenhouse, start seeds indoors! They’ll need bright indirect light and warm temperatures inside. Place them near a well-lit window or under grow lights. 

After sprouting, keep your seedlings in their pots until they grow a strong root system. If you sowed seeds in flats, separate the seedlings and pot them up before they grow too tangled. 

Transplanting

It’s best to transplant potted hebe plants in fall or spring. In frost-free areas, you may transplant in the winter when the weather is mild. Start by preparing the holes for planting. 

Dig holes as deep and twice as wide as the shrubs’ rootballs. A wide berth helps the roots establish well after planting. Place the plants in the holes, then fill the holes with the dirt you dug out. Water the site well, then add more dirt to the holes if they sink below ground level. 

You may also grow these plants in containers instead of raised or in-ground beds. Use well-draining potting soil to fill the pots, place the shrubs inside, and add more soil on top. Put a layer of compost on top of the soil to help preserve moisture and protect the roots. 

How to Grow

Give your hebes what they need, and they’ll reward you with healthy growth from spring through fall. In autumn, watch as cold temperatures shift their foliage to different colors. It’ll turn purple, maroon, and red!

Light

Hebe shrubs thrive under full sun or partial shade. They need partial shade in the hottest areas, as excessive direct sunlight can cause wilting and leaf drop. If you see signs of too much sun, like scorching or burning, consider putting up shade cloth to protect your tender plants. 

Container hebes are easy to fix. Simply move them from full sun to partial shade if they’re struggling, and vice versa if they’re leggy under too much shade. 

Water

Consistent moisture is imperative for healthy hebe growth. Grant your shrubs regular moisture during the growing season to keep them perky and vigorous. Underwatering and overwatering are difficult for hebes to handle.

Shaded hebe plants need less moisture than those in full sun. Check the soil before watering to see if it’s dry or wet. Stick your finger or a stick beneath the ground, and inspect it to determine the moisture levels. If it’s dry underneath, add water promptly after checking.

Soil

Well-drained soil is crucial for hebe growing success. The roots are prone to rotting in soggy conditions. Dense clay and poorly draining sites are difficult for them to grow in. 

If you suspect the area has poor drainage, consider amending it with organic matter ahead of transplanting your hebe. Rake a two to three-inch-thick layer of compost in the soil and let it rest for a month or longer before planting. 

Sandy soils are free-draining, though they may drain too quickly in the thick of summer. Compost is versatile—it helps increase water retention in sandy areas and drainage in clay ones. Add it to the site to boost the soil and, by proxy, your plants! You can add it after planting to continue helping your hebes throughout the year. 

Fertilizing

Fertilizer may boost established hebe shrubs, but it’s generally not necessary. They thrive without feeding if they’re growing in the ground. 

Potted plants benefit from fertilizer annually, as they tend to run out of nutrients with frequent watering. Feed them in spring with an organic fertilizer to boost their growth for the rest of the year. 

Maintenance

These shrubs are low-maintenance; they require little work to look their best. Old specimens may grow leggy or overgrown, and you can prune them to reshape them. Trim them after the bloom period is over. Cut their stems up to half, and water the plants well to help them regrow. 

Harsh pruning can rejuvenate mature shrubs. Unlike conifers, hebes grow well from old, leafless wood. Cut them back in spring after they flower so they resprout well. 

Propagation

Propagate your favorite hebes by taking cuttings or saving seeds. Cuttings are the preferred method, as seeds may not sprout true. Hebe seedlings can grow differently from the parent plant. Save seeds if you’d like to take a chance on new hebes, and take cuttings if you want to replicate your existing shrubs. 

Cuttings

Take four to six-inch-long cuttings in spring after new growth appears. Choose flower-free stems if you can, or prune the flowers off healthy stems. Remove the cuttings’ lower leaves, and place them in pots with potting soil. 

Hebe cuttings take many weeks to months to form roots, and they’ll need consistent care while they establish themselves. Keep them moist, but not soggy, and place them under dappled shade or indirect sunlight. Cover them with a humidity dome to ensure they don’t dry out. 

You may need to overwinter your cuttings to protect them from frost. They’re especially prone to damage from chilly weather. Move them to a greenhouse or cold frame, or consider moving them indoors. You can plant them out in the garden the following spring. 

Seed Saving

Seed saving is tricky for hebes. Hebe species will grow true to seed, while cultivars and varieties may not. Their seedlings will grow with different leaf shapes, bloom colors, and growing habits. 

Let insects pollinate your shrubs’ flowers, then wait for seeds to form as the blooms fade. Collect the seeds before they fall to the ground by snipping them off the plants. Place the seed heads in paper bags and let them fall after they dry.

Store dry seeds in containers and place them in a cool, dark, and dry location. The fridge, your pantry, or a closet are some ideal spots. A drawer or dark cupboard will also work well. 

Popular Varieties

Many cultivars exist for home gardens of the U.S. Choose a multicolor variety, or select a hardy small-leaf type that’ll survive winter frosts. You can grow hebes in containers, the ground, or raised beds. 

‘Sutherlandii’

Cold-climate gardeners should try growing ‘Sutherlandii.’ It’s one of the most frost-tolerant varieties, and its tight bunches of leaves are superb in formal gardens. You can shear this cultivar for hedges and shapes, similar to how you’d shear boxwoods or privets.

White blossom spikes appear sporadically on the plant in summer. Avoid shearing or cutting them by pruning your shrubs after the blossoms fade in late summer or early fall. 

‘Patty’s Purple’

This low-growing variety makes a perfect rounded shape as it grows. ‘Patty’s Purple’ is so aptly named because of its purple-red stems and white-purple blooms. Dark green leaves sprout off the red stems, creating a gorgeous contrast of red and green hues. 

This tender specimen is less hardy than most other cultivars. It’ll survive in zones 8 and above. Protect it in winter by adding a thick layer of compost on top of the soil.

‘Karo Golden Esk’

‘Karo Golden Esk’ is a particularly attractive hebe variety that resembles a conifer! It has scaly strings of foliage that form whip-like leaves. The foliage has a gold hint in winter and a lush, green color in spring and summer. 

White flowers may appear during the warm months, though they’re sporadic and few. You may prune them off if you desire the lush foliage instead. 

‘Bowles Hybrid’

This prolific rebloomer is essential in the pollinator garden! Its gorgeous purple blooms are the prize attraction of ‘Bowles Hybrid.’ 

Cold-tolerant, this shrub is ideal in cool gardens with winter frosts. Protect its roots in winter by adding compost atop the soil.  

Common Problems

Hebes are relatively problem-free, though they sometimes encounter issues when they grow in poor conditions. Ensure they have free-draining soil, consistent moisture, and plenty of sunshine so they thwart pests and diseases.

Pests

Scales and aphids may infest hebe leaves. They’re common on weak, struggling plants in shady conditions. Protect them by squishing the scale insects and spraying them off with a hose. 

Prevent a reinfestation by correcting the growing conditions. Cut overhanging trees or shrubs to provide more sun, and add compost to boost the soil’s drainage.