7 Reasons Your Rose Cuttings Are Dying
If you have a favorite rose, cuttings allow you to propagate the variety for more free plants. Though the rooting process is relatively straightforward, you may hit some snags along the way. Join seasoned grower Jerad Bryant to see why your rose cuttings are dying and learn how to save them.
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Seeds produce new, genetically different seedlings, while cuttings replicate the plant they came from. Cuttings are a form of asexual propagation, meaning they grow into new, genetically identical specimens that resemble their parent plant.
This is a boon for us gardeners because it allows us to propagate our favorite varieties. Say you like the floral structure or aroma of one variety; take cuttings to create dozens of new specimens with the same traits. But if your rose cuttings are wilting or dying, you may need some help getting to the root cause.
Here are seven reasons your rose cuttings might be dying.
How to Propagate Rose Cuttings
Begin propagation when the weather is warm, sunny, and mild. You’ll need to find healthy, active stems from a rose bush, as well as containers with potting soil, trays, and humidity domes. Start by snipping portions of the stems off the main plant, and place them in a jar of water until you’re ready to pot them up.
Cut eight-inch-long portions from large rose types like hybrid tea roses, and four to five-inch pieces from small-flowering varieties. Remove their lower leaves, blossoms, and fruits (rose hips). Store the cut stems in a jar of water, then place them in a cup of diluted rooting hormone solution. The hormones promote root formation, increasing your chances of success.
Place the dipped stems in pots with moist potting soil. Firm the dirt around their stems, then place all the containers on a tray. For the highest rooting rates, add a humidity dome on top and maintain a moist, but not soggy, culture. The dome traps moisture, creating humid conditions perfect for ample root formation.
Leave the cuttings in a bright spot with dappled or reflected sunlight. They’ll begin growing new buds and leaves after they root. When you see roots poking out of the drainage holes, you may transplant the successful propagules wherever you’d like them in your garden.
7 Reasons Your Rose Cuttings Are Dying
Though some losses are to be expected, you shouldn’t have entire trays of dying or dead rose cuttings! You can easily prevent most growing issues with proper cultivation methods. Grant your plants the soil, water, and light they need, and you’ll have rooted cuttings in no time!
It’s the Wrong Season
Early spring and the dead of winter are difficult times for rooting. The roses struggle to sprout roots when they’re not actively growing. The most ideal times for propagating roses are summer and early fall when the weather is mild, regular, and moderately sunny.
You may still try the task in spring after new growth appears—it helps to move the pots to a sunny site to prevent them from rotting. A porch, patio, or protected stoop will work well. If you’re rooting them in the fall, they’ll need protection over the winter from chilly temperatures, ice, and snow.
Overwinter cuttings near the outdoor walls of your home so they stay warm, or place them in a protective structure like a greenhouse, cold frame, or hoop house.
Temperatures can also reach too high, and dry summer weather can cause excess moisture to evaporate. Arid, hot climates can cause the budding roots to dry and wither. Use humidity domes during dry weather, and move the pots to a shady site during heat waves.
Not Enough Humidity
Humidity is key! It’s essential for rooting success. Without roots, the cut roses must pull moisture through their leaves; when the air is dry, the leaves struggle to pull in water. This threatens the success of your roses, as they’ll quickly fail without sufficient moisture.
Instead of using humidity domes, you may also situate your roses inside greenhouses, hot houses, or inside a plastic produce bag! Anything can work, so long as it’s clear and large enough to fit over the tops of the roses.
Some growers root their roses indoors. Add a personal humidifier to the room to boost the humidity around the stems. With a humidifier, you likely won’t need a dome or plastic bag.
Improper Moisture Levels
Too much and too little water can cause rotting or withering issues. If you notice the rose leaves turning yellow and mushy, or they’re dry and crunchy, it may be a problem with the soil moisture levels. Though the leaves need humidity, the rooting stems appreciate a light, moist soil culture.
When you cover the pots with a dome, you trap moisture. After watering, the soil will stay moist for long periods of time. You shouldn’t have to water the roses more often than once or twice a week, and sometimes less than that!
Not enough water is just as problematic as too much. It’ll lead to withering, crunchy leaves and limp stems. Water the roses as often as necessary to maintain a moist, but not soggy, soil culture.
Too Much Light
Excess sunlight, especially when magnified under a glass or plastic dome, can cause scorching, burning, and yellowing. You’ll see burn marks that turn brown and crispy. Keep your roses in a bright spot with dappled sun, but avoid direct sunlight.
Protect the cuttings from afternoon sunlight during the hottest hours of the day, especially in warm, southern regions of the U.S. Move them under cover, or place them in a permanent spot with the right exposure.
Full sun and partial shade may prove too sunny for your tender rose cuttings. Dappled sunlight or bright, indirect light is ideal.
Not Enough Light
Just as too much light is harmful, so too is not enough! The cut roses may rot in excessively shady sites. The cool, damp shade may invite fungi and bacteria to infect the wounds on the bottom of their stems.
Thwart these pathogens by providing bright, indirect light or dappled shade. Indoors in dark rooms, use grow lights to boost the brightness in the area. Plant grow lights are perfect for propagating rose varieties, as you can set them on a timer and have them turn on and off automatically.
Early Transplanting
Sometimes, eagerness causes dying rose cuttings! You may want to take the plants out of their pots to see if they’re rooting. Resist the urge, and test to see if they’ve rooted by gently pulling on the stems. If a stem comes out easily, no roots have formed yet. If you feel resistance, the rose has put down plenty of fresh roots.
If you began the rooting process in midsummer, the roses may not have sufficient roots to survive transplanting in the fall. Protect them over the winter in a greenhouse or cold frame, then transplant them the following spring.
Lack of Rooting Hormone
Though they’re not technically necessary, rooting hormones are extremely helpful in promoting roots on cut rose stems. Without it, the stems must use their own hormones to grow roots. A hormone product from a garden center or online can increase your success rates.
Follow the instructions on the hormone’s label, and apply it as directed. Avoid watering the plants immediately after dipping them in the solution—moisten the dirt first, and pack it around the dipped stems.
There are also natural rooting hormone solutions to try, like willow or potato water. These plants carry plenty of natural hormones that promote rooting, and you can concentrate them for home use.
